Dedraflow®
Dedraflow® anti-age lipids are a range of photostable, ultra soft emollients with a wide range of sensorial perceptions. Dedraflows® are safe and well-tested materials, and due to their chemical nature, they are non-bioavailable making them a perfect choice for modern cosmetics.
Anti-age products are one of the biggest areas in skin care today. New expensive actives are introduced continuously to protect the skin from aging, but when selecting the main ingredients for the product bases, not much consideration is placed on their properties. In other words, in most skin care products you can find lipids, which are very photoreactive. Instead of protecting the skin from aging, they age the skin by inducing free radical formation. Vitamins like Vitamin-E are added to anti-age products, in which they are supposed to protect the skin from free radicals induced by UV-light, cigarette smoke or pollution. However, photoreactive lipids induce so many free radicals in the emulsions themselves that they use up all the antioxidant activity and no protection is left for the skin. The skin remains unprotected from the free radicals, which attack DNA, proteins, fatty acids and saccharides, and hence cause oxidative damage and skin aging. This internal free radical stress in emulsions can be avoided by using only photostable raw materials, like the Dedraflow® emollients.
Volatile Dedraflow® 5.1 has been specifically created to meet the increasing demand for a replacement product to be used instead of Cyclomethicone D5.
Technical information
Dedraflow® range is constituted from Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes and Silicone Oils from very volatile grades without residue to extremely viscous grades with high residue on application. As the Polyisobutenes are fully hydrogenated, they do not induce reactive oxygen species (ROS) and so they offer an inert base for skin care actives.
Dedraflows® are clear, odourless and tasteless. They are soluble in all esters and oils allowing an excellent interface to solubilize other silicones with esters and oils. Dedraflows® can also be used as base solubizers for fragrance oils, perfume compounds and essential oils.
Dedraflow® 5.1 has the same skin feel as Cyclomethicone and the volatility profile is very similar. Dedraflow® 5.1 has a low heat vaporisation temperature and the desired vapour pressure can be selected so for this reason it has led to their use in cosmetic vehicles, including aerosols. When less than 10 ppm of D-4 content is allowed in a formulation, this formulating dilemma can be solved by using Dedraflow® 5.1. It is compatible with all higher molecular weight silicones such as Dimethicones and Silicones Polymers.
Properties and application areas
Photostable Dedraflows® are ideal base materials for anti-age products and emulsions with sensitive actives, as Dedraflows® hinder the UV-light induced degeneration of the actives and they do not promote free radical production themselves like many other commonly used emollients. Due to their structure, Dedraflows® impart an immediate sensorial effect upon application giving different properties like softness, smoothness and improved spreadability.
Dedraflows® are perfectly suited for sun care formulations due to their photostability and as they are compatible with both physical and chemical UV-filters. Dedraflows® disperse and solubilize the UV-filters efficiently allowing lower use levels of expensive UV-filters, and for this reason they improve the cost efficiency of sun care formulations.
Dedraflows® can enhance shine and they can be used to replace silicones in hair care applications. They also have good synergy with pigments making them ideal for colour care applications as well.
Dedraflow® 5.1 can be used to replace Cyclomethicone in most formulation types without compromising the skin feel and the performance of the product. The only exceptions are antiperspirant applications in which there may appear some whiteness upon application due to the Aluminum Chlorhydrate content. This difference in performance between the Dedraflow® 5.1 and Cyclomethicone is due to a difference in the refractive indexes of the materials.